Guerlain, Guerlain, it rhymes with Lorraine

[lunabee34]

Oh, Guerlain. I had such high hopes for you with your beautiful French names and your beautifully artistic bottles. I thought we were going to be such friends. Alas, you are not the house for me. :(



I'll start with the few I actually liked.

Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune

According to Fragrantica: This fragrance welcomes you with festive fireworks of freshly squeezed grapefruit, lemon and bergamot juice, whose aroma then is melting in patchouli, sandalwood and vanilla mix. It was created in 1999.

I liked this well enough. It smelled like grapefruit, sweet with a bit of a bite. Like every single Guerlain I tested, it was fairly powdery. It wasn't very long lasting, unfortunately. I think I would like this better as a shower gel or soap, but it doesn't look like any bath products are made in the Aqua Allegoria fragrances.

Vetiver

According to Fragrantica: Vetiver by Guerlain is a Woody fragrance for men. Vetiver was launched in 1959. Top note is lemon; middle notes are tobacco and vetiver; base notes are nutmeg, tobacco and pepper.

I liked this one well enough, too, although not well enough to wear often. It is much longer lasting than the previous perfume, and smells green, spicy, salty, and powdery to me. It didn't smell like an old man to me (as many reviewers have lamented), but it didn't smell like whatever it is that I'm looking to smell like either. LOL

Jicky EDP

According to Fragrantica: The top notes contain lavender and citrus (bergamot, lemon and mandarin), which perfectly match the cold, metallic orris and rose shaded by vetiver. The cold top and middle notes are an elegant counterbalance to the warm base created of patchouli, vanilla, amber and musk.

This is the Guerlain I was most intrigued by because of the civet. I wondered if I would smell a litter box or vomit or lady bits or any of the other appalling/intriguing scents people seem to get from civet. What I ended up smelling was something that began wonderfully--lemon, lavender, cinnamon, anise, clove--and then faded to a nice and inoffensive, powdery lavender. I was super underwhelmed. Love the way it smelled on me wet, but the drydown was nothing special.

Habit Rouge EDT

According to Fragrantica: Habit Rouge is a classic fragrance for men which was launched in 2003. This is a reorchestrated version of the original fragrance from 1965. The composition is based on the harmony of fresh and intense citruses in the top (lime, orange and bergamot) and warm oriental balsamic notes in the base. The smoky and leathery nuances in the final notes are contrasting with the juicy beginning. The sophisticated heart is composed of flowers, precious woods with a warm touch of cinnamon.

Well, I didn't smell any of that. LOL Habit Rouge smells powdery, sweet, perfumey and flowery to me. It does not at all ping me as a masculine scent; I was surprised to discover that it's intended for men. This scent does not offend me, but it's totally not me. Nothing I'd ever wear.

L'Heure Bleue EDP

Notes include: aniseed, bergamot, rose, carnation, tuberose, violet, neroli, vanilla, tonka, iris, benzoin

Initially, this smells green and powdery with a vanilla undertone. It gets more and more powdery as it dries down. It's not very strong and stays close to the skin but sticks around for hours. It's pleasant but not me. I don't know if my nose is just unsophisticated or if my skin chemistry damps this one down, but it's not very complex smelling to me.

Now for the ones I straight up disliked.

Apres L'Ondee EDT

According to Fragrantica: It is a beautiful, delicate combination of orange blossom and violet, with spicy anise note. Smell of a spring-time garden after a downpour, smell of wet leaves and flowers warmed by the sunshine. The heart is composed of spicy carnation and violet, not traditionally sweet in this composition. The base notes include luxurious iris and soft vanilla touch.

This is by far the worst scent experience I have had since I started smelling perfumes. This smells so bad to me. It smells like plastic and poop. It smells like a scented trash bag full of poop. Emma says, "This is worse than Antony!" I don't know what in this smells so awful to me, but it was a full-body visceral reaction of no no no no no do not want.

Mitsouko EDP

According to Fragrantica: Mitsouko is mysterious fragrance, not allowing everyone to see its beauty. The opening is long, like a play of all beautiful notes, and, of course, this fragrance is not for ordinary day use. On the skin it sounds as if it starts from far away, without any allusion to its intensity and sensual side. Mitsouko is one of the well known aromas of chypre olfactory group with cool top notes and oak moss in the base. But it also has a note of a juicy peach, which gives a clear and quite gourmand nuance. It features bergamot, peach, jasmine, may rose, spices (cinnamon), oak moss, vetiver and wood. The fragrance is exuberant, unusual and elegant, not too sweet, nor heavy, it is well balanced. Eau de Toilette is much sharper, while Eau de Perfume is warmer and nicer. The full richness of the composition, however, is revealed only in the perfume concentration.

I quote this description in full because I am one of the many not allowed in the Mitsouko Fan Club. LOL This smells like an old lady to me. An old lady wearing a powdery, kinda spicy, flowery perfume. It reminds me a lot of a box of bath powder that was in my mom's bathroom. I have no idea what the fragrance was, but the box was a lovely orangey red. By the time I was smelling it, it was probably at least a decade old and had probably been an Oriental fragrance to begin with but at that point just smelled vaguely of itself. That's what Mitsouko smells like to me. A seldom used box of bath powder that should have been tossed years ago.

And finally, Shalimar EDP

Fragrantica says: Perfume is composed of citrus notes; lemon and bergamot, jasmine, may rose, opoponax, Tonka bean, vanilla, iris, Peru balsam and gray amber. Coolness of the citrus notes leads to floral heart ending with a warm and luxurious trail.

This smells like plastic and wood to me with vanilla underneath. It's unpleasantly astringent. Something that it is in Apres L'ondee is also in this; looking at the notes, I suspect it's the iris. I think maybe Shalimar is suffering unfairly by reminding me of Apres L'ondee, but I could never wear this.


I HAVE NO TASTE, Y'ALL! *DESPAIRS* SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH ME! I CANNOT APPRECIATE THE BEAUTY OF THIS ANCIENT AND NOBLE HOUSE OF GUERLAIN! *cries*

Oh, lordy, I hope I can find something to love in the Chanel samples I bought. Otherwise, I think I'm gonna have to just deem myself a heathen, slather up in Bath and Body Works White Citrus, and call it a day. LOL

Comments

[musyc]

I HAVE NO TASTE, Y'ALL! *DESPAIRS* SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH ME! I CANNOT APPRECIATE THE BEAUTY OF THIS ANCIENT AND NOBLE HOUSE OF GUERLAIN! *cries*

Oh, lordy, I hope I can find something to love in the Chanel samples I bought. Otherwise, I think I'm gonna have to just deem myself a heathen, slather up in Bath and Body Works White Citrus, and call it a day. LOL

*LAUGH* Y'know, I'm with you. I don't have much ~*~sophisticated~*~ taste, and that's just fine by me. (Some day I should type up my rant on so-called and alleged low-taste, lowbrow entertainment. Other than just IMing my friend with it. >.> )

Come sit with me in the heathen corner. I bought like three bottles of the Black Cherry Merlot hand soap that they have right now, and I am seriously tempted to use it as a regular bath soap because I love the scent. I keep desperately hoping they'll release it as a regular scent. Even a candle! I'd buy a dozen.

[lunabee34]

Ahhahahahahaahahahhhaaa. We went to B&B today, and I saw that scent although I did not sniff it. I loaded up on handsoap myself (mostly lemony citrusy stuff) and Josh got his Ocean shower gel (which frankly smells really, really good), and we got some mahogany teakwood plug-ins.

I am dying to see how you like all the Guerlains I hated. LOL I mean, they have to smell good to/good on somebody or they wouldn't be classic.

I have high hopes for my Chanels. I already know I really like No. 5, and I've smelled them all in the vials and many of them smell really good to me. so *crosses fingers*

[lunabee34]

Also, I would totally be interested in reading that rant. As an English prof, the high/low debate in a variety of arenas always interests me.

[lunabee34]

Also, is it you who's getting a Bow and Crown of Conquest sample from elfin, maybe?

Because Emma and I tested it tonight and it's divine. Instantly on my big bottle purchase list. I am mad for this perfume.

[musyc]

Replying all at once. XD

I am dying to see how you like all the Guerlains I hated. LOL I mean, they have to smell good to/good on somebody or they wouldn't be classic.

I have high hopes for my Chanels. I already know I really like No. 5, and I've smelled them all in the vials and many of them smell really good to me. so *crosses fingers*

*laugh* See, now? Chanel No.5? I really don't like it. I know it's a classic and it's SO POPULAR, but it's just ... bleh to me. So maybe we'll be opposites on this and I'll go mad for the Guerlains. Looking forward to comparing reactions. XD

Also, I would totally be interested in reading that rant

Heh, I may never do it. I think of posts and never get to them. It certainly wouldn't be the slightest bit academic. Just strict observational. I'm definitely NOT a 'meta' kind of person in any way. Though I do know my mental rant has some connection to the 'bread and circuses' of antiquity. Doritos and Jersey Shore, these day.

Also, is it you who's getting a Bow and Crown of Conquest sample from elfin, maybe?

Yes! It's waiting for me to test. I've been doing a lot of the Lightning/Dirty/Storm Moon type of scents the past few days because it's been so hot here and I need to feel light and clean.

[lunabee34]

I love No. 5. I need to go to the Chanel counter and get a sample of it; I've got 14 Chanel samples waiting for me to test them LOL and none of them are of No. 5.

I think you are right on the money with your modern day take on bread and circuses.

I sent out your package today, and I think it should get there by Thursday. :)

[musyc]

Huzzah! Thank you again!

[musyc]

You were absolutely correct on your timing! Arrived in this morning's mail, and I'm already swanning around the house with L'Heure Bleue on. XD It makes me feel like I should be wearing a floaty floral dress.

[lunabee34]

Yay for safe arrivals!

And yay for liking stuff. :) I hope they all work for you.

[fingalsanteater]

I know a absolutely nothing about the perfume fandom, but I love reading your reviews anyway. Just wanted to let you know they entertain the heck out of me. :)

[lunabee34]

Awww, thanks for letting me know. I'm having so much fun learning about this stuff. I am so unsophisticated, and I know my nose is pretty shitty, but it's super fun figuring out what different notes smell like and learning about the history of different perfumes.

I was so sick for the whole of June that I didn't smell anything for the entire month. It was sad! but I am making up for lost time now. LOL

[elfin]

I've been super underwhelmed with the Guerlain scents that I've tested, too! Bah. Plenty of other perfume houses out there. :D

[lunabee34]

Indeed!

I know that when I finish what I've got, I want to get samples of Chanel No. 5 and Serge Lutens Miel de Bois, but that after that, I'm at a bit of a loss for where to go.

What are you going to do? Or rather, how are you choosing which samples to order? Are you going by note or picking a house you want to try or what?

[elfin]

The Chanel samples I have are yours, too, if you'd like them. I've got No. 5, CoCo, and Egoiste.

I'm going to get a sample set from CB I Hate Perfume, and then just go with notes that I like. I've got a pretty good idea of what works well for me now (and what totally doesn't) so I think I can be a little more specific.

[lunabee34]

Oh how wonderful. yes, I'd love the Chanels. Thank you.

I am intrigued by CB I hate Perfume as well. I know I want to smell their musk perfume at some point.

I know a little better what I like and what I don't know, but I think I'm still at the flaily stage. I might do one of those "best of something or other" sample sets.

[elfin]

I made a list of the notes of everything I've liked so far, and there were some very clear trends. :D

CB has one called Burning Leaves that I know I want to try.

[lunabee34]

The only thing that concerns me is about CB is I wonder about staying power. I have read some reviews that the water perfumes fade quickly.

[dejla]

Well, Guerlain is something I really love, so... Different tastes. And I love Chanel no. 5, but again, that's where tastes and skins vary, I suppose. Chypre seems to be something I really adore in almost any variant -- maybe it's chypre you don't like?

[lunabee34]

I adore No. 5. I wore it for years many years ago. And I'm super excited about trying the 14 Les Exclusifs.

I don't know why Guerlain and I don't get along. On paper, every single perfume I tried sounds like it should be right up my alley.

I'm not sure about chypre. I think Mitsouko is the only one I've smelled and knew that's what I was smelling. What are some other famous examples of chypres?

ETA: I looked it up on Wikipedia, and I've got a sample of Bandit to test. And I know I've smelled CK One before, and it just smelled fresh to me.

[dejla]

I think the first one was Coty Chypre, but I've never smelled that.

My usual go-tos are Femme by Rochas, and Chypre L'Orient (I think that's the name, but I've forgotten the house). But they're both pretty strong, at least starting out.

[lunabee34]

I should try femme by rochas. I've enjoyed reading other people's reviews of that one.

[dejla]

It's fairly strong, at least when you first spray it, but it winds down to a nice mellow scent.

[lunabee34]

Good to know. i have added it to my list!

[minim_calibre]

Did you go vintage or modern? A lot of the reformulations have sucked the life and soul from Guerlain.

I have a lot of teeny tiny vials of vintage, plus some large bottles of vintage L'Heure Bleue (which is my one true perfume, and the one I keep going back to time and again), but anything I've tried made after the stupid regulations has made me want to weep.

I'd say Jicky and Mitsouko are the two that really should be tried in vintage. I find Apres L'Ondee very dull--gorgeous violet for 30 seconds and then it's just floral. L'Heure Bleue you can kind of get the structure of in the modern version, though there's more depth and delight in vintage.

I'd also suggest Vol du Nuit--it's lovely.

(There's a similar heart to most of the Guerlains created by Jacques Guerlain, so it may be that you're just not into that combo.)

(I'm very into it. It's like a whorehouse and a headshop had a baby.)

(It's OK not to be into it. I only like one Chanel, for example. Not enough whorehouse or headshop for me.)

[lunabee34]

Looking back at Surrender to Chance, they must all be the modern formulations in that sample set because it doesn't say otherwise. And that's a good point for me to keep in mind, that many of the older perfumes I smell have gone through several iterations.

(There's a similar heart to most of the Guerlains created by Jacques Guerlain, so it may be that you're just not into that combo.)

Smillaraaq suggested the same over on the LJ mirror of this post, calling it Guerlinade which I quite like. I think you and she have hit it on the money. Even if the modern versions aren't as special as the vintage, I would think they still bear something in common with each other. And I just really don't like the powdery core of at least these few I smelled here. I'm thinking that this is just not the house for me. And Apres L'ondee at least I had this visceral reaction of pure disgust that I have no idea where it came from or what caused it but it was literally the worst thing I've smelled so far on this perfume journey. I've even decided not to test Chanel's 28 La Pausa until the very end of my chanel run because they have similar notes. LOL

I know it's got to be me and my body chemistry and my nose because these perfumes are so beloved by so many; in fact, i sent all these to Musyc, and she told told me she's been swanning about her house wearing L'Heure Bleue and feeling like a million dollars. LOL

conversely I have really liked the chanels I've tried so far. A few of them have been underwhelming, but so far I feel a pretty good affinity for this house. Is the one Chanel you like Cuir de Russie? I seem to remember you posting about it. I have all the Les Exclusifs, but I haven't tried that one yet. So far, I haven't really liked anything I've smelled that's supposed to be leather, so IDK how I'll react to it.

[minim_calibre]

Yep. That's the term for it! That powdery, iris-vanilla core (absent in Apres L'Ondee, as I recall) has its own term.

Cuir de Russie, which I am now on my SECOND 5ml decant of, is the only Chanel that works for me. It works really far too well.

[lunabee34]

Heeeeee.

Well if my sample doesn't work for me, you are welcome to it. :)

[rydra_wong]

I HAVE NO TASTE, Y'ALL! *DESPAIRS* SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH ME! I CANNOT APPRECIATE THE BEAUTY OF THIS ANCIENT AND NOBLE HOUSE OF GUERLAIN! *cries*

NO YOU HAVE YOUR OWN TASTE.

Also I am cracking up because Apres L'Ondee is a favourite scent of mine (and indeed pretty much the scent that got me into being a perfume geek), and ... your description of how it smells to you is eloquent and hilarious and proof of how different everyone's tastes (and skin chemistries) are.

I am very sorry it is not your friend.

[lunabee34]

OMG, yes! I have found it so fascinating how different everything smells to/on different people. Even between me and my daughter (who you think might share some sort of skin chemistry genes with me) things often smell vastly different on our bodies.

I am having much much more luck with Chanel than Guerlain. I think my next stop will be Dior. :)